Before going to a restaurant, I always explore the menu and ask myself, “Is this exciting enough? Should I plan a visit?” I know I’m not alone here. With so many restaurants in New York City, we have to pick and choose the right ones. When I found myself sitting in front of my computer doing my due diligence with the menu from Everdene, it piqued my interest. It wasn’t French, it wasn’t Italian, it wasn’t Mediterranean or American, it was an amalgamation of dishes from around the world. I hoped that Chef Freddy Vargas was well-traveled and created exciting versions of stand-out dishes he found along his journeys. Really, I just wanted to know more about the chef who was brave enough to make this menu.

Click here for my article about Everdene Restaurant.

MW. Growing up, were you surrounded by family and/or friends who cooked? If so, was there someone who inspired you to get into cooking? If not, how did you find your way into the kitchen?

FV. My father always had a knack for cooking, and it was through his side of the family that I fell in love with Ecuadorian cuisine. But it was when I was around the age of 14 that I truly fell in love with cooking. I would come home and watch Emeril Lagasse’s “Essence of Emeril” on the Food Network. There are even videos - thankfully, no one knows where they are - of me impersonating Emeril Lagasse and hosting my own cooking show.

MW. At what point did you go from cooking food to becoming a chef? Was there a pivotal moment?

FV. After moving to Miami to help open Scarpetta at the Fontainebleau, I realized I had the chance to grow and transition from being a cook to becoming a chef. I learned that being a chef goes beyond cooking; it involves motivating a team and organizing a kitchen to be profitable and consistent.

MW. Having worked in several truly notable restaurants, what inspired the move to Everdene? What is uniquely special about the experience of working here?

FV. I knew that this property was going to be a flagship for Virgin Hotels, and I was eager to make a significant impact on the hotel's opening. I mean, what’s not unique about an opening in the heart of Manhattan? We've had a great journey so far, and we're excited about the impact we'll continue to have on the community and our guests.

MW. What is your favorite dish on the Everdene menu and why?

FV. One dish? I have so many! But if there were one, it would be our Smash Burger. The Everdene “Secret Sauce” is my play on the McDonald's version. The burger has two dry-aged beef patties, topped with aged cheddar, lettuce, tomato, and that special secret sauce. But what is in the sauce? I can’t say. It’s a secret!

MW. What dish do you have mulling around in your brain that you haven’t created yet but can’t wait to?

FV. I am working on a twist on an Ecuadorian classic, Encebollado. Traditionally, it's a fish stew with albacore tuna, sofrito, yucca, and a red onion sauce called salsa curtido. My take involves using toro instead of albacore, serving it raw, and then pouring hot broth tableside to gently cook the toro.